A Malawi Holiday

In Malawi, Christmastime, December, normally means not snow nor cold but heat and sometimes humidity as the rainy season begins. But after 5 Christmases spent in Malawi, one starts to get use to it. So what did we do during this hot, humid rainy Christmas?

To begin, we decided to try our luck at hiking knowing that the rain could delay our plans at anytime. Just outside of Lilongwe are several small mountains or hills that can be climbed in a day. We started with a hill called Bunda located just near a very popular university. We went with two of our friends and enjoyed a rather steep, vertical climb to the top. At the top of the mountain, people engaged in prayer and fasting can almost always be found. Small sleeping quarters created from stones stacked upon one another with black plastic sheets for roofing can be seen where those in prayer sleep for the night. Women singing songs of praise can be heard as they echo across the mountain. While the sky was cloudy and dark, we were not hampered by rain during our climb.

Next, we traveled to a district in the central of Malawi called Dedza. It’s known for being mountainous and having a bit cooler weather. We stayed at a beautiful pottery lodge just below the mountains and enjoyed a day of relaxing in lush green grass, good food and a quiet peace that was welcomed after life in the city. We also took a tour of the pottery making process and shop as it's quite popularly known through Malawi (Dedza Pottery). Although Lilongwe is not a very large nor loud urban scene, it still cannot compare to the Malawi found outside it’s boundaries.

The next day as the sun was shining we were blessed to take our car up a rather bumpy, steep path that would have been inaccessible had it rained. We parked at the base of Namzeze Mountain and with our guide started climbing until we came upon a massive cave carved out onto the side of the mountain. From this cave one could easily see the green valleys below and other wandering hills. Inside the cave was rock art some pieces as old as 2,000 years and were created by the Batwa Pygmies and the early Chewa people. The cluster of sites where such rock art can be found is called the Chongoni Rock Art Area. The art at this site was still well preserved and the vibrant red and white colors were easily visible. The entire area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

Afterwards we continued driving south and spent some time with friends at the lake in Mangochi district. We visited the Lake Malawi National Park and a place known as Otter Point which I hadn’t been to since 2014. The site sparkles with waters so clear and blue you can see straight to the bottom and all the varieties of freshwater cichlids who reside there. While the lake is beautiful, I easily grow restless there and am normally ready to carry on after just 1 or 2 days.

We then drove down to Blantyre city where we met up with Mpha’s sister and brother and did a little city exploring. We started the morning by hiking yet another mountain. This one was rather unique though as we traveled along a path called The Way of the Cross along Michiru Mountain. This path has over 15 different points along the hike where one is to remember the crucifixion, death and resurrection of Jesus. It is a very popular spot of pilgrimage for Catholic Malawians and as the path is spiritual, a quiet, reflective hike ensued. At the top of the mountain is a 12-meter large cross that was put there 18 years ago. This was a very special way for us to celebrate the Christmas holiday with family. On Sunday morning we went to service at the historic St. Michael and All Angels Church which was built in Blantyre in 1888 to 1891 as part of the Scottish Blantyre Mission. The church is quite massive and the architecture beautiful. And I must say that although the church may be dated in history, the service itself was truly lively, crowded and vibrant!

After church we drove to Mpha’s parents home where all the family could be found. All 3 sisters (one newly married with a baby) and two brothers. It was going to be quite a Christmas requiring much cooking oil, rice, meat and vegetables. A Christmas meal is normally marked by eating rice instead of the local staple, nsima, having some kind of meat, normally chicken, and the presence of Fanta/Coke. We had all this and more! Christmas morning we made our way to the small, humble church where there was much singing and at the end of the service gifts were exchanged among the church members- a tradition the pastor had started. Everyone got something and it created a special Christmas atmosphere. After church, Mpha’s mother and other women of the church headed to the hospital to visit with those who were sick and bring them some necessary food and other goods. All this was organized by the small church. In the afternoon with bellies full from the Christmas feast, we set out in the rain to visit some local historical sites with the family around Blantyre and Chiradzulu districts.

And after all this it was time to come home and . . . move! Yes, we have moved yet again and I’m sure it wont be the last time. This is my 5^th house in Malawi and each have been very different yet served us well. We still live in the same part of Lilongwe and basically just moved down the street into a flat that's a bit bigger than our last one. I have no doubt the next year in our new home will be filled with much happiness. We moved on New Years Day after ringing in the New Year with friends at a terrific firework show in Lilongwe. Props to the city. Ready for 2018 in Malawi.